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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee familiar high-end venues. However, nestled prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” states the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.